Kate's Updates. At Anytime. On Anything. From Any Continent.

12 March 2003

[Sanctuary Welcome Party]

The big news from today was our party -hosted by Carola and Andreas and everyone in the sanctuary was invited. They planned the start for 7pm, but a few of the guys working on building their house took off early and started with the beers at four. We had cases and cases of both beer and hard liquor and set out plates of snacks: peanuts, pretzels, sweets, coconut pastry shells, sausages on a stick, oranges, chicken wings, suckers and jelly candies for the kids. Drinking until you are passed out drunk is completely socially acceptable here and part of the culture. It is expected and your friends will always be around to drag you to your bed.

Started out with people forming small circles of friends, drinking beer and slowly passing around plates of food. Kun Kitty (one of the sanctuary managers) stood and addressed everyone in Thai, telling the reason for the party and introducing me and Guillaume. Ladies first, he said, so I was asked to stand and turn around (I have no idea why or if I did the correct thing) and waai-ed (raised my hands in a prayer position up to my chin with a slight bow of the head). All smiles. Guillaume was next. Conversations continued. I felt a bit self-conscious because I couldn't talk with anyone. About an hour into the party the electricity went out. This was actually nice because we set up candles on the floor and it gave the open-air room a warm intimate soft radiant glow. Kun Kitty then passed around lengths of white string to everyone. A boy sitting next to me took my arm and tied his piece on my wrist saying it is a Thai tradition for good luck. Ok, how sweet, I thought and smiled. Then, another young man came up and tied his string on my other wrist. Made me feel good - to have one on each wrist and thought there would be a quick movement as people passed out their string among friends. I was mistaken. Next, and elderly man with a darkened, wrinkled, brown face sitting next to me took my arm and mumbled under his breath in Thai, knotting the string carefully and gently rubbing the knot very serious. Lek (one of the rangers I work with) came over (on his way to being drunk by now) and I offered my right wrist. No, it seems the left is appropriate. Wichian (another ranger friend) joined to hold my arm straight and support my elbow as people added their string, caressing my wrist and palm. Quickly I learned I was to hold up my right hand with index finger at my nose to sort of shield my face (I never did learn the significance from anyone) and then waai (Thai greeting of respect) after. I was all smiles, they were all smiles. The room was warm and glowing. It was intoxicating. I have at least 25 pieces of string on my wrists. Carola let me know (and I guessed) that this was one chance for the guys to touch me. So, they lined up to wish me happiness at Phu Khieo. I truly felt their warmth and will treasure the moment of a community embracing me. I am to leave the string on for three days for luck. I rather like looking down to see white fringes dangle from my wrists.

The party continued and as the beer was used up the harder stuff came out. I got up and joined a circle of guys who were singing and clapping to a guitarist. Everyone got a kick out of me coming over. And, everyone wanted me to sing -just one song, just one song (they absolutely LOVE karaoke). I declined with heavy smiles and settled for clapping along, but I could tell Wichian was disappointed. Candles still glowing, shortening down to small piles of wax sculpture, they finally got me up to dance. Well, a Thai version of dancing that involves moving your hands -- Carola calls it mixing the air. As the night wore on to midnight (time passed quickly even though due to stomach issues I could eat nothing and drink nothing but coke -- someone always made sure my glass was full), the crowds grew sparse. The guitarist went on. Men sat with glazed-over eyes and far-off looks on their faces. The silence grew to fill the space of quieted voices.